There exists perhaps no more fabled archipelago in all the world. For us naturalists, the Galapagos immediately conjured images of giant tortoises, odd and enigmatic finches, tropical seabirds, and idyllic beaches. Few folks who have not been there appreciate the ruggedness of this remote landscape. Famously challenging ocean currents swirl around looming volcanoes, while onshore the arid deserts host spiny cacti, prehistoric land iguanas, and expanses of hardened and jagged lava floes. It is precisely this juxtaposition, a paradise amidst a savage landscape, that continues to transfix visitors and scientists to this day. Only the fittest of animals might thrive here, and those that do have evolved into among the most distinct creatures on Earth.

Our visit features an unusual tour of the islands not seen by most who come to the Galapagos. With one night on land in the largest town of Puerto Ayora, we spend an additional six nights aboard a comfortable mid-size catamaran. With our hotel being our transport and our restaurant, we make efficient use of our time, weaving through the main islands, and looping around smaller less-visited ones. While we make a point to see as many endemic species as we can, we also take time to really familiarize ourselves with these enchanted islands. Partaking in a variety of landings and thrilling zodiac cruises, we make a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station, and enjoy chances to see most of Darwin’s Finches, mockingbirds, and stupendous seabirds like Swallow-tailed Gull, Gapapagos Petrel, and Waved Albatross.

Join Hillstar Nature for an unsurpassed adventure to Las Islas Encantadas… the Galapagos!

The Hotspots

Santa Cruz

Not only at roughly the geographic center of the archipelago, the island of Santa Cruz is also at the center of commerce and tourism for the Galapagos. The town of Puerto Ayora is the largest one, and growing with no less than 15,000 residents, plus many tourists and seasonal workers moving through. In addition to the typical lowland habitats found elsewhere, the island features some accessible humid highland habitats, including a fascinating Miconia zone, allowing for chances at certain species that can be difficult to find elsewhere. Here we have chances to commune with giant tortoises, and also to see Large Tree-Finch, Vegetarian Finch, Paint-billed Crake, and still others. We often make a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Center, and have some time to explore the town of Puerto Ayora too. Sometimes our best sightings of the Land Iguanas arise as we land at the airport.

Genovesa

One of the most remote and least visited islands, we shall hope to have an opportunity to visit magnificent little Genovesa. The horseshoe shape reveals an old collapsed volcanic caldera, with Darwin Bay in the middle of it. The shoreline is good nesting seabirds such as Great Frigatebird, Swallow-tailed Gull, and even Lava Gull which is arguably the rarest gull species in the world. Also the island features a large Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel colony and is a good place to see the endemic form of Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, the endemic Genovesa Ground-Finch, and the Genovesa Cactus-Finch. Seabirding to/from the island can be good too.

Española

Uninhabited but among the most well visited islands, Española is famous for the absurdly tame Española Mockingbirds, and also as one of the best sites to see Galapagos Hawk. A few of the vistas here are great display sites for Red-billed Tropicbirds, but the island is best known as the stronghold breeding site for the Waved Albatross. Nearly 30,000 pairs (almost the whole population) breed here and with luck we may see adults engaged in their elaborate courtship displays as they form pairs and strengthen pair bonds.

Isabela

Shaped like a big seahorse, this is the largest island, and is home to the town of Puerto Villamil which has about 2200 inhabitants. Five of the six volcanoes that formed the island remain active, with eruptions as recently as 2005 and 2008. Each volcano hosts its own endemic species of giant tortoise, and the calderas and surrounding lava fields can be good for the elusive Galapagos Martin. A visit to Tagus Cove in the Bolivar Channel can be a nice place to shelter or take a dip, and is also a good place for the martin. The west side of the island features cold nutrient-rich waters, and are among the best for finding the Flightless Cormorant and the Galapagos Penguin (one of the word’s rarest).

San Cristobal

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the 2nd largest town in the islands, and is snugly tucked into the northern edge of this island which hosts one of the four endemic Mockingbird species, and is also a good place to see the Gray Warbler-Finch. As we arrive/depart here, the harbor can host Oystercatchers, you can usually get a good view of Kicker Rock in the distance, and the waters here can be especially good for Galapagos Petrel and good numbers of Galapagos Shearwaters. In 2011, it was amongst a large flock of the latter that George Armistead photographed Ecuador’s first Manx Shearwater, so other oddballs can occur here too. 

Floreana

One of the great conservation success stories within the islands, just a decade ago, Floreana was overrun with non-native and invasive species that were decimating the native birds and plants. While the work is ongoing and far from done, a number of organizations have teamed up to eradicate the invasive species and restore the island. The Floreana Mockingbird is among the islands’ most endangered birds, and one of the hardest to see, but they are trending in the right direction. Recently the Galapagos Rail, was confirmed here after a long absence, essentially undetected since the days of Darwin. This is also the only place where the Medium Tree-Finch is found, and some of the fanciest-looking Marine Iguanas can be seen loafing around the shoreline.

Our Boat: The Nemo III

15 Guests/8 cabins

A smallish but sharp-looking 75-foot catamaran, the Nemo III is owned and operated by a family who have been sailing the Galápagos since 1985. With a specialized itinerary, visiting a collection of sites not often available to the average tourist, or to most birding groups, a cruise aboard the Nemo III offers unparalleled access to the islands. Our route is designed to maximize our chance at seeing the endemics while also providing a great experience overall of the islands, suitable for birders or anyone with a general interest in wildlife and this famous destination. It is the best way to see this storied archipelago. 

The Nemo III was renovated in 2016 and now sits astride the best of accommodations in her class. With a maximum of just 16 guests on board at a time, she has eight cabins. Take a virtual tour of the ship here. In keeping with most of the smaller vessels of the Galapagos cabins are of a moderate size, and each is finished in beautiful natural wood, giving them a very traditional feel. All are equipped with individual air conditioning and excellent modern en suite bathrooms with showers. Cabins are available with double beds, twin beds or doubles with single bunk for triple occupancy. 

CABIN TYPES: Available as first come, first serve.

Type A: 6 cabins in total.

1-2 beds, each with a private bath, A/C, shower, etc. Each has either a double bed, 2 twin beds, or a double bed combined with an upper (single) bunk.

Type B: 2 cabins in total.

1 double bed or 2 twin beds, each with a private bath, A/C, shower, etc. This cabin while still comfortable is a bit smaller, and noisier that the others as it adjoins the dining area. This cab also has a short flight of ladder-like steps. 

Food onboard is excellent. Our kitchen accommodates a variety of diets, and as if the three stellar meals each day weren’t enough, there are always snacks around too. Alcoholic beverages are paid for separately at the end of the voyage. 

Common areas are superb. These  include the sun deck up top, which is great for sun-bathing, looking for seabirds and other marine life, and has a jacuzzi. The main dining area is towards the stern which is open air, but covered from the sun. The (indoor) lounge is great for cracking open a book, sharing photos with friends or just hanging out. 

If conditions are right, we might raise the sails and try and make time cutting through the wind that way during our crossings.

Rigor, Pace, Pests & other considerations

• Hotels are of 3 or 4-star varieties in Quito & at Puerto Ayora. Our boat is comfortable, nimble, and has an excellent crew. Cabins are modern and comfortable, yet not overly spacious. Pack sensibly.

• Crossings between islands can feature somewhat turbulent seas. Those prone to motion sickness are advised to prepare for the possibility of rougher seas. 

• The pace is generally quite relaxed, but some agility is required to maneuver around the ship, to get in/out of zodiacs, and to endeavor the few hikes that are offered. 

• Hikes are optional, but if you plan to partake in them, be sure to bring good quality hiking boots. Lava rock is great at peeling off soles of old hiking boots. 

• Usually few if any biting insects are encountered, but it’s still probably wise to bring a small personal supply of bug repellant. 

• Guests should indeed prepare for prolonged sun exposure. 

• We should have up-close encounters with giant tortoises, sea lions, various birds, land iguanas, and marine iguanas. 

• Usually, to mitigate against any potential flight issues, we recommend arriving a day early into Quito ahead of the tour, if possible. If you do so and are interested in an extra day of birding ahead of the tour’s welcome dinner, or to visit the Otavalo market, we can make these arrangements on request.